January 17, 2026 – January 25, 2026
Taiwan 台灣台灣
Nine rainy winter days from Taipei to Xiaoliuqiu: bookshops and record shops, the Taipei Music Center and a 萬芳 concert, literary Taichung, Tainan’s nameless food stalls, and sea turtles off a coral island.從台北到小琉球，冬雨裡的九天：書店與唱片行、台北流行音樂中心和萬芳的演唱會、文學氣質的台中、台南無名的小吃，以及珊瑚小島外的海龜。
Travel itinerary旅行行程
Nine rainy winter days冬雨裡的九天
Every Generation Has Its Songs每一代人，都有自己的歌
January 17–25, 20262026 年 1 月 17–25 日
- Taipei台北
- Taichung台中
- Tainan台南
- Xiaoliuqiu小琉球
A solo trip through Taiwan, from Taipei to a coral island in the south. I walked a different city every day, lost hours in old bookshops and record stores, ate my way through night markets, and let Mandopop play the soundtrack, from a concert of old songs to the rooms where those songs began. Everything moved a little slower, like stepping back into an earlier decade, all the way down to the sea turtles riding the tide.一個人的台灣之旅，從台北一路走到南方的珊瑚小島。每天都在不同的城市裡散步，在老書店和唱片行裡消磨時光，在夜市裡一路吃過去，讓華語音樂成為整趟旅程的背景音：從一場老歌的演唱會，到那些歌最初響起的地方。這裡的一切都慢一點，像是走回了某個更早的年代，一直慢到隨潮漂流的海龜。
I
The Songs We Sing唱我們的歌
Taipei台北
Old songs have kept generation after generation company. In a room of shared listening, some were healed, some remembered, some cried quietly.經典老歌陪伴著一代又一代人的青春。在共同聆聽的空間裡，有人被療癒、有人想起、有人安靜地落淚。
The concert演唱會
萬芳 was my mom’s favourite singer, so I went for her, and came away loving 壯女們, her all-women band. They sang 新不了情, then Mayday’s 玫瑰少年 and 擁抱, and a hall full of strangers sang every word along with them.萬芳是媽媽最喜歡的歌手，我是為她去的，結果卻愛上了她的全女子樂隊——壯女們。她們唱《新不了情》，也翻唱五月天的《玫瑰少年》和《擁抱》，滿場素不相識的人，一字一句地跟著唱。
Witch House女巫店
Witch House, a small café and live house near National Taiwan Normal University, has been a first stage for singer-songwriters since the 1990s; 張懸 and 蘇打綠 both played here early on. Round the corner, the Shida night market.女巫店是師大附近一間小小的咖啡館兼 live house，九十年代起就是許多創作歌手的第一個舞台，張懸和蘇打綠都曾在這裡唱過。轉個彎，就是師大夜市。
Taipei Music Center台北流行音樂中心
張懸, 五月天, 周杰倫, 陳綺貞: the songs I grew up listening to were all here, from Mayday’s first album to the piano from Jay Chou’s Secret and 陳綺貞’s Demo 1. The exhibition follows Taiwanese pop from the radio era to today; lyrics line the walls and hang like leaves from a white paper tree.張懸、五月天、周杰倫、陳綺貞……我一路聽著長大的歌，都在這裡：從五月天的第一張專輯，到《不能說的秘密》的鋼琴、陳綺貞的 Demo 1。展覽從廣播年代一路走到今天，歌詞貼滿牆面，也像葉子一樣掛在一棵白紙做的樹上。
Bookshops書店
Taipei’s independent bookshops hide up narrow stairs and down quiet lanes. Fembooks, opened in 1994, was the first feminist bookstore in the Chinese-speaking world; the Taipei Literature Base, a pair of restored Japanese-era houses, now hosts readings and writers in residence.台北的獨立書店，藏在窄窄的樓梯上、安靜的巷子裡。1994 年開業的女書店，是華文世界第一家女性主義書店；台北文學·季，兩棟修復後的日式老屋，如今是朗讀會和駐村作家的家。
The National Palace Museum故宮博物院
The National Palace Museum holds some 700,000 pieces from the imperial collections, carried across the strait in 1948–49; only a small part is on show at any time.台北故宮收藏約七十萬件來自清宮舊藏的文物，1948 至 1949 年間渡海而來；任何時候展出的，都只是其中一小部分。
Everyday Taipei日常的台北
A breakfast shop lit before dawn, a footbridge to a school, the rainbow crossing in Ximending, painted in 2019 when Taiwan became the first place in Asia to legalise same-sex marriage, Taipei 101 in the winter overcast, and a poem running the length of the walls beneath Taipei Main Station.天亮前就亮著燈的早餐店，通往學校的天橋，西門町的彩虹斑馬線——2019 年台灣成為亞洲第一個同性婚姻合法化的地方，那年畫上了它——冬日陰天裡的台北 101，還有台北車站地下，一首寫滿整面牆的詩。
In motion · 萬芳 sings 新不了情影像 · 萬芳唱《新不了情》
萬芳 and 壯女們 singing 新不了情, her classic theme for the 1993 film C’est la vie, mon chéri, with scenes from the film on the screen behind them.萬芳和壯女們唱起《新不了情》——她為 1993 年同名電影演唱的經典主題曲，身後的螢幕上放著電影的畫面。
II
A City of Quiet Letters有文學氣質的台中
Taichung台中
In the courtyard a giant banyan; somewhere in its aerial roots, a bicycle, slowly becoming part of the tree — until it can no longer be seen.院子裡那棵巨大的榕樹，氣根盤旋而上。一輛不知何時卡在樹根裡的自行車，慢慢與榕樹融為一體，直到，再也看不見。
The Literature Museum台中文學館
The Taichung Literature Museum fills a row of restored Japanese-era police dormitories, its courtyard shaded by a single great banyan. Small bookshops sit in the lanes around it.台中文學館設在一排修復後的日式警察宿舍裡，院子被一棵大榕樹整個蔭著。周圍的巷子裡，散落著小小的書店。
The old line舊鐵道
When Taichung’s railway was raised onto a viaduct in 2016, the 1917 red-brick station and the old tracks were kept: carriages became shops, and the line became a long green walk through the city.2016 年台中鐵路高架化之後，1917 年的紅磚老車站和舊軌道都被留了下來：車廂變成了小店，鐵道變成了一條穿城而過的綠色步道。
Leisure is simply seeing the moon from your own doorway.
“閒”就是在門口看到月亮。
III
Under the Banyan Trees榕樹下的台南
Tainan台南
Banyans everywhere, their roots hanging down like the city itself — welcoming everything. Life here is never in a hurry.城裡遍地榕樹，氣根垂落，遮天蔽日，像這座包容的城市本身。日子不緊不慢。
The old capital府城
Tainan was Taiwan’s capital for more than two hundred years, and it still has a temple on almost every corner. Hayashi Department Store, opened in 1932, had the first elevator in southern Taiwan.台南做了兩百多年台灣的首府，至今幾乎每個街角都有一座廟。1932 年開業的林百貨，有南台灣第一部電梯。
Anping安平
In Anping the Dutch built Fort Zeelandia in the 1620s and 30s; a white lookout tower now stands on its old walls. Nearby, banyan roots have swallowed a nineteenth-century British trading company’s warehouse, the Anping Tree House.十七世紀二三十年代，荷蘭人在安平築起熱蘭遮城；如今一座白色瞭望塔立在它的舊城牆上。不遠處，榕樹的氣根吞沒了一間十九世紀英國洋行的倉庫，就是安平樹屋。
Blueprint, tiles & cats藍曬圖、花磚與貓
Old dormitories turned into the Blueprint Culture & Creative Park, named for a giant blueprint mural. Around them, painted tiles, cats on brick walls, and bookshop shelves up to the ceiling.老宿舍改成了藍曬圖文創園區，名字來自一幅巨大的藍曬圖壁畫。周圍是彩繪花磚、磚牆上的貓，還有一直頂到天花板的書架。
Tainan eats台南的吃
Tainan is where the island comes to eat. People queue at Ding Fu Fa for pork-lard rice with a fried egg; dinner is fish-ball soup, braised tofu and eggs, and a bowl of minced pork rice.台南是全島的人專程來吃的地方。鼎富發門口排著隊，等一碗豬油拌飯配煎蛋；晚飯是魚丸湯、滷豆腐、滷蛋，加一碗肉燥飯。
This is a good place for dreaming, working, falling in love, marrying, and living at an easy pace.
這是個適合人們作夢、幹活、戀愛、結婚，悠然過日子的好地方。
From the Food notebook美食手记Ding Fu Fa: pork-lard rice with a runny egg — the simplest thing in Tainan, done perfectly.鼎富發：豬油拌飯加一顆半熟蛋——台南最簡單的東西，做到最好。Open on the Food page →在美食页打开 →IV
With the TideLamay · 小琉球
Xiaoliuqiu小琉球
Sea turtles, sea turtles, crawling toward the ocean, drifting with the rise and fall of the tide.海龜 海龜 爬向大海，隨著潮起潮落飄著。
Sea turtles海龜
Xiaoliuqiu is one of the best places in Taiwan to see green sea turtles; they graze on algae in the shallows close to shore. Swimmers are asked to keep a few metres away.小琉球是台灣看綠蠵龜最好的地方之一，它們就在離岸不遠的淺水裡啃食海藻。游泳的人被提醒，要和它們保持幾米的距離。
The coral island珊瑚島
The whole island, under seven square kilometres, is raised coral reef. Vase Rock, its landmark, is a pillar of coral limestone worn thin at the base by the waves; at low tide the reef flats drain into channels and tide pools.整座島不到七平方公里，全是隆起的珊瑚礁。地標花瓶岩是一根珊瑚石灰岩柱，底部被海浪啃得細細的；退潮時，礁坪上的海水流進一道道水溝和潮池。
Land crabs, wind & temples陸蟹、風與廟宇
From summer into autumn, land crabs cross the coastal roads to release their eggs into the sea, so signs ask drivers to slow to 30. Pandanus and wind-combed grass hold the cliffs, and temple roofs look out over the water.從夏天到秋天，陸蟹會橫過海邊的公路，到海里釋放卵，所以路牌提醒車輛減速到 30。林投和被風梳過的草守著海崖，廟宇的屋頂望著大海。
Great swaths of green, and great swaths of blue.
大塊的綠和大塊的藍。
In motion · A sea turtle影像 · 海龜
Taipei · 台北台北
60 photos
A damp, quiet winter city that wakes after noon: the Palace Museum, Witch House and Fembooks, the Taipei Music Center, a 萬芳 concert, night markets and poems under Taipei Main Station.
Taichung · 台中台中
10 photos
A slow, literary city: shops in old railway carriages, independent bookstores, and a banyan at the Taichung Literature Museum that has swallowed a bicycle.
Tainan · 台南台南
33 photos
A city that eats well and never hurries: nameless soup stalls, Hayashi Department Store, the lanterns of Shennong Street, banyans everywhere and temples side by side.
Xiaoliuqiu · 小琉球小琉球
29 photos
A small coral island off the south coast: sea turtles in the shallows, land crabs on the road, Vase Rock and a hundred Mazu temples.