August 1, 2026 – August 16, 2026
Spain España西班牙 España
A family road trip across Spain: Madrid and Barcelona, the Basque coast, Cantabria, Asturias and a total solar eclipse outside León.一场横跨西班牙的家庭自驾：从马德里、巴塞罗那到巴斯克海岸、坎塔布里亚、阿斯图里亚斯，并在莱昂郊外追到日全食。
Travel itinerary旅行行程A family road trip家庭自驾
Nieve en agostoSnow in August八月飞雪
August 1 – 16, 20262026 年 8 月 1–16 日
- Madrid马德里
- Barcelona巴塞罗那
- Bilbao毕尔巴鄂
- Gaztelugatxe加斯特鲁加特
- San Sebastián圣塞巴斯蒂安
- Santander桑坦德
- Comillas科米利亚斯
- Picos de Europa欧罗巴山
- León莱昂
- Madrid马德里
Por las ramas del laurelvi dos palomas oscuras.La una era el sol,la otra la luna.Through the branches of the laurelI saw two dark doves.One of them was the sun,the other the moon.穿过月桂的枝条，我看见两只幽暗的鸽子。一只是太阳，另一只是月亮。Federico García Lorca, “Casida de las palomas oscuras”洛尔卡《幽暗鸽子的卡西达》
Two weeks in August, one family, one car across Spain: Gaudí’s Barcelona, the Basque coast at fiesta time, the green north, and a field outside León where the sun went out.This autumn, Los Javis’ La bola negra reached cinemas, and there on screen was our road: its 1937 story was filmed on the same Cantabrian coast. In the film, August is a month of loss, and in its song the snow falls. In ours, a black ball crossed the sun, and a whole field looked up together.八月的两周，一家人，一辆车，横穿西班牙：高迪的巴塞罗那，节日里的巴斯克海岸，绿色的北方，还有莱昂郊外那片看着太阳熄灭的田野。今年秋天，Los Javis 的电影《黑球》（La bola negra）上映，银幕上正是我们走过的路：片中 1937 年的故事，就拍在同一段坎塔布里亚海岸。电影里，八月是失去的月份，歌里下着雪；而在我们的八月，一颗黑球越过太阳，整片田野的人一起抬起了头。
Nada es invento, porque está escritoen la naturaleza primero.
Nothing is invented, for it is writtenin nature first.
没有什么是发明出来的，因为它早已写在大自然里。
I
Stone That Grows会生长的石头
Barcelona巴塞罗那
Gaudí’s city in the August heat: a church that, a hundred years after his death, finally reached its full height this year, a forest of stone inside, and light poured through coloured glass.八月热浪里高迪的城市：一座在他逝世一百年后，终于在今年长到最高处的教堂；里面是一片石头的森林，光从彩色玻璃里倾泻下来。
The Spires尖塔
The spires from below, from the hills above the city, and at night, when the star on the Tower of the Virgin Mary lights up.从塔下看，从城外的山上看，也在夜里看——那时，圣母玛利亚塔顶的星会亮起来。
Inside the Forest林中
Inside, the columns branch like trees, and the windows turn the light orange on one side and blue on the other.走进里面，柱子像树一样分枝；窗户把一侧的光染成橙色，另一侧染成蓝色。
Around Gaudí高迪周围
He was not alone. Domènech i Montaner built a hospital like a small garden city, Passeig de Gràcia filled with houses like waves and bones, and the young Picasso learned to paint here.他并不孤单。多梅内克·伊·蒙塔内尔把一座医院建成了小小的花园城市，格拉西亚大道上满是波浪与骨头般的房子，年轻的毕加索也在这里学会了画画。
II
The Iron Coast铁的海岸
Bilbao · Bilbo毕尔巴鄂
Bilbao grew rich on iron and ships, then remade itself in titanium. Since Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim opened in 1997, the city has become a gallery of architects: Norman Foster’s glass metro entrances, Santiago Calatrava’s white footbridge over the river, and Philippe Starck’s old wine warehouse turned cultural centre. The world even named the effect after the city: the “Bilbao effect.” Under the Basque flag it is easy to forget that the north began to fall here: Franco’s troops took the city in June 1937, two months after Gernika burned thirty kilometres away.毕尔巴鄂靠铁矿和造船起家，又用钛金属重塑了自己。自从弗兰克·盖里设计的古根海姆博物馆在 1997 年开馆，这座城市就成了一座建筑师的画廊：诺曼·福斯特的玻璃地铁入口，卡拉特拉瓦横跨河面的白色步行桥，菲利普·斯塔克把旧葡萄酒仓库改成的文化中心。世界甚至用这座城市的名字，为这种现象命名：“毕尔巴鄂效应”。在巴斯克旗下，很容易忘记北方正是从这里开始陷落的：1937 年 6 月，佛朗哥的军队攻下这座城市；两个月前，三十公里外的格尔尼卡刚刚被大火吞没。
From the Food notebook美食手记El Globo, Bilbao: gratinéed spider crab, squid and truffled potato cream.毕尔巴鄂 El Globo：焗蜘蛛蟹、焗鱿鱼、松露焗土豆泥。Open on the Food page →在美食页打开 →
From the Food notebook美食手记Restaurante Amaren, Bilbao: a T-bone sold by the kilo, aged for weeks and finished on a little grill at the table.毕尔巴鄂 Amaren 牛排馆：按公斤卖的 T 骨牛排，熟成几周，在桌上的小烤炉里收尾。Open on the Food page →在美食页打开 →III
Dragonstone龙石岛
San Juan de Gaztelugatxe圣胡安·德加斯特卢加切
A hermitage on a rock in the Bay of Biscay, reached by a stone causeway and some 240 steps. At the top, visitors ring the bell three times and make a wish. In 2017 it became Dragonstone in Game of Thrones.比斯开湾一块礁石上的小教堂，要走过石桥、再爬两百四十多级台阶。到了顶上，人们会敲三下钟，许一个愿。2017 年，它成了《权力的游戏》里的龙石岛。
IV
Semana Grande大周
San Sebastián · Donostia圣塞巴斯蒂安
Donostia–San Sebastián in its August fiesta week: fireworks over the bay every night, dancers in yellow on the stage, and La Concha changing colour with each rain shower. On our night, Sunday the ninth, it was the Dutch team, Xena Pyrotechnics, lighting up the 61st International Fireworks Contest, and the whole bay leaned back to watch.八月节庆周里的多诺斯蒂亚–圣塞巴斯蒂安：每晚海湾上空都有烟火，舞台上是穿黄衣的舞者，贝壳湾随每一场阵雨变换颜色。我们去的那晚是 8 月 9 日，周日，轮到荷兰的 Xena Pyrotechnics 为第 61 届国际烟火大赛点亮夜空，整片海湾的人都仰起了头。
The Bay海湾
The town curls around a perfect shell of sand. Climb Monte Urgull and it fits inside a castle window.小城环抱着一弯贝壳形的沙滩。爬上乌尔古尔山，它刚好装进城堡的一扇窗。
Fiesta节日
Basque dance is all height: kicks above the head, a dancer lifted onto the others’ shoulders. Late at night, the fireworks.巴斯克舞讲究高度：踢腿过头，一名舞者被同伴托上肩头。夜深了，烟火开场。
Old Town老城
Between showers: Gothic vaults, the cloister of San Telmo among the roofs, and storm light over the whole city.阵雨之间：哥特式的拱顶，屋顶间圣特尔莫的回廊，还有笼罩全城的风暴之光。
In motion · Semana Grande影像 · 圣塞巴斯蒂安大周
Verde que te quiero verde.Verde viento. Verdes ramas.El barco sobre la mary el caballo en la montaña.
Green, how I love you, green.Green wind. Green branches.The ship out on the seaand the horse on the mountain.
绿啊，我多么爱你这绿色。绿的风，绿的树枝。船在海上，马在山中。
V
The Green Front绿色前线
Cantabria · Santander · Comillas坎塔布里亚 · 桑坦德 · 科米利亚斯
Summer 1937: the Republic’s northern front is collapsing, and Santander falls on August 26. La bola negra sets its war story here, in a Francoist camp behind the lines, and Los Javis filmed it on this coast: soldiers on the beach at La Arnía, bombs and a firing squad in the fields of Oyambre, a field hospital in the old seminary at Comillas, on the hill in this photograph.1937 年夏天，共和国的北方战线正在崩溃，桑坦德在 8 月 26 日陷落。《黑球》把战争的那段故事放在这里，放在前线后方的一座佛朗哥军营；Los Javis 也就在这段海岸拍摄：拉阿尔尼亚海滩上的士兵，奥扬布雷田野里的轰炸与枪决，还有科米利亚斯老神学院里的野战医院——就是这张照片里山顶上的那座。
Costa Quebrada破碎海岸
West of Santander the coast breaks into islets and arches. In the film, soldiers stand on the sand at La Arnía, a few coves along.桑坦德以西，海岸碎成一座座小岛和拱门。电影里，士兵们就站在几个海湾之外的拉阿尔尼亚海滩上。
Santander, August八月的桑坦德
Rafael Rodríguez Rapún, Lorca’s last love and one of the film’s characters, died in a hospital here in August 1937, a year after Lorca was shot in Granada. Days later the city fell. Today the bay is quiet: anglers on the sea wall, a lighthouse on Mouro, Renzo Piano’s Centro Botín over the water.洛尔卡最后的爱人拉斐尔·罗德里格斯·拉蓬，也是电影里的人物，1937 年 8 月死在这里的医院，距洛尔卡在格拉纳达被枪杀整整一年。几天后，这座城市陷落。如今海湾很安静：防波堤上有人钓鱼，穆罗岛上立着灯塔，伦佐·皮亚诺的博廷中心悬在水面上。
Santillana del Mar桑蒂利亚纳德尔马尔
The town of three lies, they say: it is not holy, not flat, and not on the sea. A street photographer still works its cobbles with a wooden box camera.人们叫它“三个谎言之城”：既不神圣（santa），也不平坦（llana），也不靠海（del mar）。一位街头摄影师仍带着木箱相机，在石板路上替人拍照。
Comillas to San Vicente从科米利亚斯到圣维森特
Comillas was built by its marquis, who made his fortune in Cuba, with Catalan architects: Gaudí’s El Capricho, and the great seminary on the hill. West of it the road crosses the dry gold fields of Oyambre, passes a bench that says there is no summer without Gerra, and reaches San Vicente de la Barquera, where a pilgrim points the way to Liébana.科米利亚斯由在古巴发家的科米利亚斯侯爵，请来加泰罗尼亚建筑师一手建起：高迪的“随想屋”（El Capricho），还有山上那座宏大的神学院。往西，公路穿过奥扬布雷金黄干燥的田野，经过一张写着“没有赫拉就没有夏天”的长椅，抵达圣维森特-德拉巴尔克拉，那里有一位朝圣者指向列瓦纳。
VI
Above the Clouds云上
Asturias · Picos de Europa阿斯图里亚斯 · 欧罗巴山
On the morning of the eclipse we drove up to the Lakes of Covadonga. Tradition says Christian Spain began in these mountains in 722; in October 1937 Asturias was the last of the north to fall. Up here there were only cows, and a sea of cloud below.日食那天早上，我们开车上到科瓦东加湖。传说基督教西班牙在 722 年从这片山里开始；1937 年 10 月，阿斯图里亚斯是北方最后陷落的地方。而山上只有牛，脚下是一片云海。
The Lakes湖
Enol and Ercina, two glacial lakes more than a thousand metres up, under limestone peaks.埃诺尔湖和埃尔西纳湖，两座海拔一千多米的冰川湖，头顶是石灰岩的群峰。
Nobody Moves谁也不让
The cows of the Picos own the road, the grass and the lakeshore. Now and then two of them lock horns in a slow, friendly shove, then go back to grazing. All day, they never looked up at anything.欧罗巴山的牛占着公路、草地和湖岸。偶尔有两头凑在一起，慢悠悠地顶顶角，较量一会儿，又低头接着吃草。一整天，它们什么也没抬头看。
VIII
Back in Madrid回到马德里
Madrid马德里
The last two days in Madrid, where La bola negra’s third story is set, in 2017: a young man uncovering what his family never said. Bookstalls along the Cuesta de Moyano, the Prado, the Gran Vía, and, from the Templo de Debod at dusk, the cathedral slowly turning blue.最后两天在马德里：《黑球》的第三个故事就发生在这里，2017 年，一个年轻人揭开家里从未说出口的秘密。莫亚诺坡道上的旧书摊，普拉多博物馆，格兰大道，还有黄昏时从德波神庙望去，渐渐染成蓝色的阿尔穆德纳大教堂。
The First Afternoon第一个下午
Before the road, at the Reina Sofía: the city seen from its glass lifts, a white figure in the courtyard.出发之前，在索菲亚王后美术馆：从玻璃电梯里看城市，庭院里的白色雕像。
Streets街
Second-hand books, a tiled street sign, the Prado, the metro, and Cervantes at dusk: an ordinary sunset this time.旧书、瓷砖路牌、普拉多、地铁口，还有黄昏里的塞万提斯——这一次，是一场普通的日落。
PENÍNSULA IBÉRICA · CAMINO DEL NORTE3°W · 43°N
Basque Region Euskadi
Bilbao, San Juan de Gaztelugatxe and San Sebastián — art, coastline, pintxos and summer rain.
3 places · 112 photos
Barcelona巴塞罗那 · Barcelona
44 photos
Gaudí’s centenary city: stone, colour and Mediterranean light, seen between crowded summer streets and the sea at dusk.
Cantabria坎塔布里亚 · Cantabria
63 photos
A northern coast of stone towns, fishing harbours and long horizons: Santander, Santillana del Mar, Comillas and the road west.
Asturias & Picos de Europa · Asturies阿斯图里亚斯与欧罗巴山 · Asturies
30 photos
Green Asturias rising into the Picos de Europa: mountain roads, pasture, rain and the landscapes that framed the eclipse detour.
León莱昂 · León
20 photos
A last-minute clearing outside León became a shared field for Spain’s first total solar eclipse in 121 years.
Madrid马德里 · Madrid
33 photos
A city of green avenues, old bookstalls, tiled street signs and the long, quiet galleries of the Prado.