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Visits from 2020 to 20252020 至 2025 年的几次停留

A Lake, a Fountain, the World一面湖,一道喷泉,一个世界

Summer 2022 · Winter 2022 · Autumn 20252022 年夏 · 2022 年冬 · 2025 年秋

  1. The Lake湖
  2. Mid-Autumn中秋
  3. The Nations万国
  4. The Halls殿堂
  5. Noël au Jardin圣诞集市
  6. The Old Town老城
  7. The Salève萨莱夫山

Geneva, across several visits during my exchange: the lake and the Jet d’Eau in summer, the United Nations, a snowy Christmas market, the old town in autumn, and the whole city seen from the Salève.在日内瓦交换期间,几次走过这座城:夏天的湖与大喷泉,联合国,飘雪的圣诞集市,秋日的老城,还有从萨莱夫山上望见的整座城市。

I

Summer on the Lake夏日湖畔

Lake Geneva · the Jet d’Eau日内瓦湖 · 大喷泉

Blue water you can swim in, sails crowding the marina, and a fountain that throws its own rainbow.可以游泳的蓝色湖水,挤满码头的帆,还有一座会自己抛出彩虹的喷泉。

A rainbow caught in the spray of the Jet d'Eau. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a大喷泉的水雾里,挂着一道彩虹。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦
A yellow Mouette ferry crossing the harbour. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a一艘黄色的“海鸥”渡船穿过湖港。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦
Masts crowding the marina. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a码头上林立的桅杆。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦
A dog and its owner sunning on the lakeside rocks. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a湖边礁石上,一只狗和它的主人在晒太阳。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦
A swan on the quay, the Jet d'Eau behind it. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a码头上一只天鹅,身后是大喷泉。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦
A lone tree at the tip of a stone jetty. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a石堤尽头,一棵孤零零的树。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦

Clear, placid Leman! thy contrasted lake,With the wild world I dwelt in, is a thingWhich warns me, with its stillness, to forsakeEarth’s troubled waters for a purer spring.

澄澈宁静的莱芒湖!你与我栖身的喧嚣尘世如此不同,你的静谧提醒我:离开世间浑浊的水,去寻一泓更纯净的泉。

Lord Byron, Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage (1816)拜伦《恰尔德·哈洛尔德游记》

II

Mid-Autumn over Mont Blanc中秋 · 日照金山

September 10, 2022 · the Grand Morillon rooftop2022 年 9 月 10 日 · 大莫里永学生公寓屋顶

Mid-Autumn night, far from home. From the rooftop of Kengo Kuma’s Grand Morillon, the last sun turned Mont Blanc gold, and then the full moon rose over the Alps.离家很远的中秋夜。在隈研吾设计的大莫里永学生公寓屋顶上,先是日照金山,最后一缕阳光把勃朗峰染成金色;然后,满月从阿尔卑斯山上升起。

Mid-Autumn night: the full moon rising over the Alps. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a中秋夜,满月从阿尔卑斯山上升起。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦
日照金山: the last sun turning Mont Blanc gold. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a日照金山:最后一缕阳光,把勃朗峰染成了金色。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦
Kengo Kuma’s Grand Morillon catching the last light. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a隈研吾设计的大莫里永学生公寓,接住最后一点光。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦
The Mid-Autumn moon over Mont Blanc, the city settling below. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a中秋的月亮挂在勃朗峰上空,城市在下面慢慢安静下来。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦
Alpenglow on Mont Blanc after sunset. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a日落之后,勃朗峰上的余晖。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦

但愿人长久,千里共婵娟。

May we all live long, and share this moon though a thousand miles apart.

Su Shi苏轼《水调歌头》

III

City of Nations万国之城

Place des Nations · UNHCR · CERN万国广场 · 联合国难民署 · 欧洲核子研究中心

A giant chair on a broken leg, standing for everyone wounded or killed by landmines; a long avenue of flags; and a laboratory where the universe is taken apart.一把断了一条腿的巨型椅子,为每一个被地雷伤害或夺走的生命而立;一条长长的旗帜大道;还有一座把宇宙拆开来看的实验室。

Broken Chair: three legs, and one splintered stump. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a断腿椅:三条腿,和一截断掉的腿。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦
The avenue of flags at the United Nations. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a联合国门前的万国旗。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦
The Palais des Nations under a deep blue sky. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a深蓝天空下的万国宫。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦
The glass-roofed atrium of the UNHCR, a Nansen Award banner hanging down. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a联合国难民署玻璃顶的中庭,垂着南森难民奖的条幅。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦
CERN's Globe of Science and Innovation under the flags. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a旗杆下,欧洲核子研究中心的科学与创新球。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦
Ptolemy's epicycles etched in steel at CERN. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a欧洲核子研究中心的钢板上,刻着托勒密的本轮。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦

“…to promote international co-operation and to achieve international peace and security.”

“促进国际合作,实现国际和平与安全。”

Covenant of the League of Nations (1919)《国际联盟盟约》The League met in Geneva; the Palais des Nations was built for it.国际联盟设在日内瓦,万国宫正是为它而建。
Fountains in the Place des Nations, Broken Chair beyond. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a万国广场的喷泉,远处是断腿椅。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦

“We the peoples of the United Nations, determined to save succeeding generations from the scourge of war…”

“我联合国人民,同兹决心,欲免后世再遭战祸……”

Preamble, Charter of the United Nations (1945)《联合国宪章》序言

IV

Halls of Time and Music时间与音乐的殿堂

Victoria Hall · Patek Philippe Museum · Saint-Pierre维多利亚音乐厅 · 百达翡丽博物馆 · 圣皮埃尔大教堂

Waiting for Lang Lang beneath the gilded ceiling of Victoria Hall, the hush of a cathedral nave, and pocket watches that hold a whole sky of stars inside a case of gold.在维多利亚音乐厅的金色天顶下等待郎朗,大教堂中殿里的静默,还有把一整片星空藏进金色表壳的怀表。

The gilded ceiling of Victoria Hall, waiting for Lang Lang. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a维多利亚音乐厅金色的天花板,等着郎朗登场。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦
Lang Lang at the piano, alone in the light at Victoria Hall. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a维多利亚音乐厅,郎朗和他的钢琴,独自在光里。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦
A gold pocket watch, holding the sky, the calendar and the hours in one hand. · W⁠a⁠t⁠c⁠h⁠ ⁠m⁠u⁠s⁠e⁠u⁠m⁠,⁠ ⁠G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a一枚金怀表,把天空、日历和时辰握在一只手里。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦⁠钟⁠表⁠博⁠物⁠馆
A blue star chart inside a gold watch case. · W⁠a⁠t⁠c⁠h⁠ ⁠m⁠u⁠s⁠e⁠u⁠m⁠,⁠ ⁠G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a金色表壳里,藏着一张蓝色星图。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦⁠钟⁠表⁠博⁠物⁠馆
The tall Gothic nave of Saint-Pierre Cathedral. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a圣皮埃尔大教堂高高的哥特式中殿。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦

“I am by birth a Genevese.”

“我生来是日内瓦人。”

Mary Shelley, Frankenstein (1818)玛丽·雪莱《弗兰肯斯坦》The opening of Victor Frankenstein’s story. Shelley conceived the novel at the Villa Diodati, on the shore of Lac Léman, in the summer of 1816 — the same summer Byron was writing of the lake.维克多·弗兰肯斯坦故事的开头。1816 年夏天,雪莱在莱芒湖畔的迪奥达蒂别墅构思了这部小说——正是拜伦写下这片湖的那个夏天。

V

Winter Lights冬日灯火

Noël au Jardin · December 2022花园圣诞集市 · 2022 年 12 月

The first snow, a carousel turning by the lake, fire glowing in iron globes, and PEACE spelled out in light in the six languages of the UN.初雪,湖边转着的旋转木马,铁球里跳动的火光,还有用联合国六种语言点亮的“和平”。

A tall Christmas tree by the lake, the city lit behind it. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a湖边一棵高高的圣诞树,身后是亮灯的城市。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦
An old carousel turning in the snow. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a雪中转动的老式旋转木马。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦
Paper stars glowing in a market stall. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a集市摊位里亮着的纸星星。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦
Skewers roasting over an open fire. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a明火上烤着的肉串。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦
A hay cart wrapped in fairy lights. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a缠满串灯的干草车。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦
PEACE in six languages, written in light. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a用六种语言写成的“和平”,是一行光。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦

VI

The Old Town in October十月的老城

Bourg-de-Four · Jardin Anglais布尔德富尔广场 · 英国花园

Copper leaves above the cathedral steps, a carousel in the Place du Bourg-de-Four, the Flower Clock, and the Jet d’Eau glimpsed between branches.大教堂石阶上方的铜色落叶,布尔德富尔广场的旋转木马,花钟,还有枝叶间一闪而过的大喷泉。

A carousel turning in the Place du Bourg-de-Four, autumn overhead. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a布尔德富尔广场上转着一座旋转木马,头顶是秋色。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦
Saint-Pierre Cathedral's portico on an autumn morning. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a秋天的早晨,圣皮埃尔大教堂的柱廊。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦
The Jet d'Eau seen over the rooftops of the Rues Basses. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a越过下城的屋顶,看见大喷泉。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦
The Flower Clock in the Jardin Anglais. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a英国花园里的花钟。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦
The Jet d'Eau framed by autumn leaves. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a秋叶框住的大喷泉。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦
An old bell tower rising out of copper leaves. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a一座老钟楼,从铜色的叶子里升起。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦

VII

Above the City山上看城

The Salève萨莱夫山

Dad and I went up the Salève, just across the border in France: Mont Blanc on one side, all of Geneva on the other, and paragliders stepping off into the haze.我和爸爸登上边境那头、法国境内的萨莱夫山:一边是勃朗峰,一边是整座日内瓦,滑翔伞一顶接一顶地跃进薄雾里。

A paraglider hanging in the blue above Geneva. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a日内瓦上空的蓝里,挂着一顶滑翔伞。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦
Mont Blanc's snow above the autumn woods of the Salève. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a萨莱夫山的秋林之上,是勃朗峰的雪。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦
Geneva and its lake from the Salève, softened by haze. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a从萨莱夫山看日内瓦和湖,被薄雾柔化。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦
A red paraglider drifting over the edge of the Salève. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a一顶红色滑翔伞,飘过萨莱夫山的边缘。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦

In motion · A Sunny Leap from the Salève影像 · 晴日,从萨莱夫山一跃而起

Paix · Peace · 和平 · سلام · Мир · Paz

和平,用联合国的六种语言写成。

Written in light, Geneva日内瓦,用光写下
A swan alone on the darkening lake. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a渐暗的湖面上,一只天鹅独自浮着。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦
Member-state flags flying at CERN. · G⁠e⁠n⁠e⁠v⁠a欧洲核子研究中心门前飘着成员国的旗帜。 · 日⁠内⁠瓦

Post Tenebras LuxAfter darkness, light.黑暗之后,光明。— Geneva’s motto日内瓦城市格言