August 18, 2023 – August 19, 2023
Hong Kong 香港香港
Back in Hong Kong nine years after my first visit in 2014: two wet summer days, walked like a Wong Kar-wai film: the fruit market and goldfish of Kowloon, Chungking Mansions and the harbour at night, then a tram east along the island to the walls of Quarry Bay.2014 年第一次來，九年後又回到香港：夏天的雨裏走了兩天，像走進一部王家衛的電影：九龍的果欄和金魚，夜裏的重慶大廈與維港，再坐電車沿港島一路向東，走到鰂魚涌的樓牆底下。
Two summer days夏天的兩日
Ten Thousand Years一萬年
August 18–19, 20232023 年 8 月 18–19 日
- Kowloon九龍
- Hong Kong Island香港島
如果記憶是一個罐頭的話，我希望這罐罐頭不會過期；如果一定要加一個日子的話，我希望它是一萬年。If memories could be canned, I hope this one would never expire. If it must have a date, let it be ten thousand years.王家衛《重慶森林》，1994 · Wong Kar-wai, Chungking Express
I first came to Hong Kong in 2014. Nine years later I came back for two summer days, walking between the rain showers, and the city felt like stepping into a Wong Kar-wai film.2014 年第一次來香港。九年後的夏天，我回來走了兩天，在陣雨之間穿街過巷，像走進一部王家衛的電影。
I
Ding Ding叮叮
North Point北角
Across the harbour, the trams run east, the bell ringing in the rain. Trams have run along the north shore of the island since 1904; that bell gives them their name. In North Point the tram turns off King’s Road and rolls straight through the market on Chun Yeung Street, the stalls pulled back just far enough to let it pass.海港對岸，電車一路向東，鈴聲在雨裏響着。電車從 1904 年起就沿着港島北岸行駛，“叮叮”這個名字就來自這鈴聲。在北角，電車拐離英皇道，直接從春秧街的街市中間開過去，攤檔往後讓一讓，剛好夠它通過。
King’s Road英皇道
In the 1950s North Point was called Little Shanghai, after the families who settled here from Shanghai. The Sunbeam Theatre, a home of Cantonese opera since 1972, and the Wah Fung Chinese Goods Centre still hold the street.五十年代，從上海來的人家在這裏落腳，北角於是有了“小上海”的名字。1972 年開業、一直上演粵劇的新光戲院，還有華豐國貨，至今守着這條街。
Chun Yeung Street春秧街
A wet market under red lamps, washing hung between the towers, and the tram bell ringing the whole way through.紅燈下的街市，樓與樓之間晾着的衣服，還有一路響個不停的電車鈴。
Upper deck上層
Upstairs at the front, for a few dollars: rain on the glass and the city sliding past.上層最前排，幾塊錢的車費：窗上的雨，和慢慢滑過的城市。
雖然我知道這條路不是很長，我知道我很快就會下車，但是這一分鐘，我覺得好暖。
I know this road isn’t very long, and soon I’ll have to get off. But right now, I feel warm.
II
Street Life市井
Mong Kok · Yau Ma Tei旺角 · 油麻地
Wong Kar-wai’s first film, As Tears Go By (1988), is called 旺角卡門 in Chinese: Mong Kok Carmen. Thirty-five years later the district is still signboards, minibuses, footbridges and goldfish hung in bags, one of the most crowded places on earth. A few streets south, in Yau Ma Tei, the fruit market floor shines after the rain, and across the road there is a cinema.王家衛的第一部電影叫《旺角卡門》（1988）。三十五年過去，這裏依舊是招牌、小巴、天橋，和一袋袋掛起來的金魚，世界上最擁擠的地方之一。往南走幾條街，到了油麻地，雨後果欄的地面還反着光，馬路對面，是一間戲院。
Goldfish Street金魚街
On the north end of Tung Choi Street, goldfish hang in plastic bags by the hundred, in rows like lanterns; 金魚 sounds like 金餘, gold to spare. In Chungking Express, Faye Wong’s character slips into Cop 663’s empty flat and drops new goldfish into his tank, changing his life one small thing at a time.通菜街北段，金魚裝在塑料袋裏，幾百袋掛成一排排，像燈籠；“金魚”諧音“金餘”。《重慶森林》裏，王菲演的阿菲偷偷溜進警察 663 空無一人的家，往他的魚缸裏放進幾條新的金魚，一點一點地改變着他的生活。
From the footbridges天橋上
Mong Kok is best seen from above. The footbridges carry people over the roads; below, minibuses, market stalls and double-deckers fill every gap.旺角最好從高處看。天橋把人送過馬路；橋下，小巴、攤檔和雙層巴士塞滿了每一處縫隙。
Boundary Street界限街
Boundary Street was drawn in 1860 as the edge of British Kowloon; north of it lay the land leased in 1898. Along it, corner tenements curve with the street, shops below and homes above.界限街是 1860 年劃下的英屬九龍邊界，街北是 1898 年租借的土地。沿街的轉角唐樓順着馬路彎過去，樓下開店，樓上住人。
The fruit market油麻地果欄
The Yau Ma Tei Fruit Market has traded since 1913. The wholesale business is done before dawn; by noon its low sheds belong to the retail stalls and the people passing through.油麻地果欄 1913 年開始營業。批發生意在天亮前就做完了；到了中午，那些低矮的鐵皮棚子就留給零售的攤檔和路過的人。
Cinema street戲院街
The Broadway Cinematheque, Hong Kong’s art-house cinema, was showing Kore-eda’s Monster. Round the corner stands the 1922 Yau Ma Tei Police Station, familiar to anyone who has watched Hong Kong police dramas.百老匯電影中心是香港的藝術影院，那天在放是枝裕和的《怪物》。轉個彎，就是 1922 年的油麻地警署，看過港劇警匪片的人都會覺得眼熟。
我們最接近的時候，我跟她之間的距離只有 0.01 公分。
At our closest point, we were just 0.01 centimetres apart.
III
Chungking Nights重慶森林
Tsim Sha Tsui尖沙咀
Chungking Express opens in Chungking Mansions: a woman in a blonde wig, a cop running, neon smeared by a hand-held camera. The building still stands on Nathan Road, five blocks of guesthouses, curry houses and money changers, and the crowd outside still moves like that. Down at the water, the island is lit up across the harbour.《重慶森林》從重慶大廈開場：戴金色假髮的女人，奔跑的警察，被手持攝影機拖出殘影的霓虹。這棟樓還在彌敦道上，五座樓裏擠滿了賓館、咖喱館和找換店，門口的人潮，依舊那樣流動。走到海邊，對岸的港島亮着燈。
Chungking Mansions重慶大廈
Nathan Road after dark: double-deckers in the neon, crowds waiting at the lights, and the entrance to Chungking Mansions lit like a cinema foyer.入夜的彌敦道：霓虹裏的雙層巴士，路口等燈的人羣，重慶大廈的入口亮得像一間戲院的大堂。
The harbour維港
On the waterfront, K11 MUSEA, opened in 2019, its atrium coiled like a shell; across Victoria Harbour, the island’s skyline lit for the night.海旁的 K11 MUSEA 2019 年開幕，中庭像一枚捲起的貝殼；維多利亞港對岸，港島的天際線亮了一整夜。
1960 年 4 月 16 號下午三點之前的一分鐘，你和我在一起。因為你，我會記住這一分鐘。
One minute before three o’clock, on April 16, 1960, you were with me. Because of you, I will always remember that minute.
IV
Ten Thousand Windows一萬扇窗
Quarry Bay鰂魚涌
At Quarry Bay, walls of flats bend along King’s Road at the foot of the hill. Behind them stand the five linked blocks the internet calls the Monster Building; step into the courtyard and the sky shrinks to a slit.在鰂魚涌，一整面一整面的住宅樓順着英皇道，在山腳下彎過去。它們背後，是被網友叫作“怪獸大廈”的五座相連的樓；走進天井，天空就只剩一條縫。
The curve弧
From below, thousands of windows, air-conditioners and drying laundry lean out over the road; at street level, a bakery, a stationery sign and a red light in the rain.從底下望上去，成千上萬扇窗、冷氣機和晾曬的衣服，一層層向馬路探出來；街面上，是雨裏的麪包店、文具店招牌和紅燈。
The courtyard天井
Inside, the blocks close in on all sides: floor upon floor of windows, and a strip of white sky at the top.走進去，樓從四面圍攏過來：一層又一層的窗，頂上一條白色的天。
Kowloon · 九龍九龍
31 photos
The fruit market in Yau Ma Tei after the rain, goldfish hung in bags on Tung Choi Street, the old Boundary Street, and Tsim Sha Tsui lit up at night, from Chungking Mansions to the harbour.
Hong Kong Island · 香港島香港島
28 photos
East along King’s Road by tram: the Sunbeam Theatre in North Point, the market on Chun Yeung Street where the trams run between the stalls, and the walls of windows in Quarry Bay.